| Here we have a few things you should check on | | | | need with these. |
| your motorcycle on a regular basis. I assume you | | | | -Carb balance - if your bike is multi carbed get |
| have a handbook with the specs for your bike, if | | | | yourself a Morgan carbtune or similar. It can be a little |
| not, go get one. You may be able to find some data | | | | tricky the first time you balance them, but when |
| for your particular motorcycle on the net. You can | | | | you've done it once, the second time will be easy. |
| also pick up workshop manuals for various models on | | | | -Ignition timing - only necessary on some bikes, most |
| eBay in PDF or CD form for little money. | | | | newer models have electronic ignition which does not |
| Whereas with a four wheeled vehicle you may get | | | | need touching, normally. |
| away with being lax with things like tire pressures | | | | -Valve clearances - unless you're a good home |
| etc, this is not the case with a motorcycle. You | | | | mechanic, take it to a dealer. |
| should not risk compromising the safety and stability | | | | -Wheel bearings - grab each wheel with it off the |
| of your motorcycle, for the sake of a bit of routine | | | | ground and see if there is any sideways play. There |
| maintenance. | | | | should be none or maybe a trace at most. |
| Pre-ride check | | | | -Steering head bearings - with the front end off the |
| -Tires - check condition and for foreign objects in the | | | | ground, grab the forks and push and pull. There |
| tread. | | | | should be no play. |
| -Tire pressures - it is vitally important to keep your | | | | -Swinging arm bearings - with the back wheel off the |
| motorcycles tire pressures either on spec or very | | | | ground, check for any sideways movement in the |
| close to it. | | | | swingarm, there should be none. |
| -Oil level - always check with the bike on level | | | | -Brakes - check fluid levels, brake hoses for |
| ground. | | | | deterioration, and pads/shoes for thickness. |
| -Coolant level - only if your bike's liquid cooled, | | | | -Cables and levers - should operate smoothly. Get |
| obviously. | | | | some grease on lever/pedal pivot points, and get |
| -Chain - check the tension and make sure it's well | | | | some lube down the cables, if you can. A cable oiler |
| lubed. | | | | is a handy tool. |
| -Brakes - check they work and that they feel good. | | | | -Nut and bolts - go all round the motorcycle with |
| -Lights - check all your lights, especially the brake | | | | your spanners and check that all nuts/ bolts/screws |
| light, you don't want to get rear ended, do you? | | | | are nice and tight. |
| -Visual inspection - self explanatory. | | | | Well, that's about it for some basic maintenance, |
| -All ok - hit the road. | | | | obviously, unless you're a good home mechanic, any |
| Periodical checks | | | | bigger jobs will have to go to a dealer. The problem |
| -Check battery - see that the connections are tight; I | | | | can be finding a good one with skilled mechanics you |
| dropped a bike once because of a loose battery | | | | can trust. I manage to keep my Yamaha Fazer 1000 |
| connection, strange but true. Also check the | | | | running sweet just using the steps listed above. It |
| electrolyte level on some batteries, a lot of newer | | | | does help that this model only needs the valve |
| batteries are gel filled, sealed for life types, so no | | | | clearances checking every 26,000 miles. |